Sewing or looping machine



A. R. BELL S EWING OR LOOPINGMACHINE Nov. 25, 1941.

.Filed Jan. 12, 1939 8 Sheets-Sheet l Nov.25, 1941. I AQR'. BELL I2,264,234

SEWING OR LOOPING MACHINE Filed Jan. 12, 1959 8 Shets-Shet 2 Nov. 25,1941. A. R. BELL SEWING OR LOOPING MACHINE Filed Jan. 12, 1959 sSheets-Sheet 3 v NOV. 25, 1941. A EL 2,264,234

SEWING OR LOOFING MACHINE Filed Jan. 12, 1939 -8 Sheets-Sheet 4 Nov. 25,1941. A. R. BELL SEWING OR LOOPINGMACH-INE Filed Jan. 12, 1939 8Shegts-Sheet 5 -Nov. 25, 1941'. A. R. BELL SEWING OR LOOPING MACHINEFiled 'Jan. 12, 1959 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 Nov. 25, 1941. A, R. BELL v SEWINGOR LOOPING MACHI NE Filed Jan. 12, 1959 Sheets-Sheet 7 8 Sheets-Sheet 8Nov. 25, 1941. A. R. BELL SEWING OR LOOPING MACHINE Filed Jan. 12, 1939Patented Nov. 25, 1941 umr o STATES PATENT OFFICE SEWING OR LOOPINGMACHINE Application January 12, 1939, Serial No. 250,619

17 Claims.

This invention relates to sewing or looping machines. The primary objectof the invention is to provide a machine which will successfully form ahighly elastic thread, i. e. a thread consisting of or including astrand of cut or extruded rubber, into a row or chain of stitches toform a seam, hem, or edge in or on a suitable fabric, especially knittedor other inherently elastic fabrics, for the purpose of providing adegree of elasticity in the seam, hem, or edge which will be consistentwith or in excess of the inherent elasticity of the fabric.

Prior to the present invention considerable difficulty has beenexperienced in automatically forming a row of stitches in a fabric witha rubber thread, for the reason that, as the sewing needle pierced andpassed through the fabric and carried the thread with it, the frictiondeveloped between the thread and the fabric stretched the thread andheld it so tightly against the side of the needle, during both theforward and return strokes of the needle, that the shuttle or loopforming hook of the sewing or looping machine could not pass between theneedle and the thread to form the thread into a loop on the one face ofthe fabric to function as a basis for a new stitch.

One object of the invention is to provide a special form of needle forprojecting the elastic stitching thread through the fabric in a mannerto cooperate with an auxiliary element arranged to lift or pick theelastic thread away from one side of the needle and to hold the threadin the form of an open loop to be subsequently entered by the needle.

The machine also includes mechanism for holding the fabric in a more orless expand-ed or stretched condition during the stitch formingoperation and mechanism for advancing the fabric holding means step bystep to regulate the distance between the needle piercings, for formingthe elastic stitching thread into a chain of interconnected stitches, incoordination with the operations of the needle and the picking element.

The machine also includes tensioning means for the elastic stitchingthread, to maintain the stitching thread under a tension correspondingto the tension under which the fabric is maintained during the stitchingoperation; and means which will take up surplus thread drawn from a coneor other elastic thread supply by the needle and the picker during theformation of the loops through which the needle is projected, in orderthat all of the loops will be substantially of the same size and undersubstantially the same tension as that to which the fabric is subjectedfor and during the stitching operation.

In the accompanying drawings:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the machine, partly in section, as taken on theline l-l, Fig. 2;

Fig. 2 is a transverse sectional elevation taken on the line 2-2, Fig.1;

Fig. 3 is a longitudinal front elevation;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged transverse sectional elevation taken on the line44, Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is sectional elevation taken on the line 55, Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a side view of a detail of the invention;

Fig. 7 is an enlarged detail View, partly in section, showing the needleand a cooperating fabric holder;

Fig. 8 is a View similar to Fig. '7, showing a modified form of needle;

.Fig. 9 is a rear elevation of a detail of the invention;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of themechanism shown in Fig. 9;

Figs. 11 to 16 inclusive are diagrams illustrating the various steps inone cycle of operations during the formation of one of the stitches ofthe series or chain;

Fig. 17 is a transverse sectional elevation taken on the line Il-l'l,Fig. 1;

Fig. 18 is a sectional view taken on the line l8 |8, Fig. 17;

Fig. 19 is a sectional view of a modified form t of quill ring lockingmechanism;

Fig. 20 is a view similar to Fig. 2 and shows a modified form of needleand needle operating mechanism.

Fig. 21 is a front elevation, partly in section, of the mechanism shownin Fig. 20;

Fig. 22 is a plan view of the needle and needle operating means shown inFigs. 20 and 21;

Fig. 23 is a sectional elevation taken on the line 23-23 Fig. 21 andshowing the needle being projected through the fabric;

Fig. 24 is an enlarged perspective view of the needl shown in Figs. 20to 23 inclusive; and

Fig. 25 is a transverse sectional view of the needle as taken on theline 252 5, Fig. 24.

As clearly shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the machine forming the subjectmatter of the present invention comprises a main base plate l, which isadapted to be mounted in a horizontal plane. The base plate I isprovided with a pair of laterally spaced lugs 2, 2 to which are secured,by boltsor screws 3, the opposite ends 4, 4 of a fabric holdersupporting bracket 5.

bear against the opposite end of the bearing 6 and together with theflange 8 prevent axial movement of the sleeve I in and relative to thebearing 6, while permitting relative rotation between said sleeve andsaid bearing, The ratchet wheel III is secured to the sleeve I againstrelative rotation therebetween by a lock screw II.

The sleeve I is adapted to receive a tubular element I4, which formspart of one of a number of interchangeable fabric holders I5. Thetubular element I4 is arranged to be readily removed from and replacedin the sleeve I, and is secured to said sleeve against relative rotationby a locking pin I6, which is mounted in and projects outwardly from theflange 8 of the sleeve 1 into an opening I8 formed in an annularshoulder I3 formed on the tubular element I4, which bears against theouter annular face of the flange 8.

The tubular element I4 is provided with an outwardly flaring flange I9for the reception of a ring 2|. Screws pass through openings formed inthe ring 2! and are tapped into. the tubular element I4 to secure thering 2| thereto.

Between the ring 2I and the flange l9, the fabric holder I5 is providedwith a multiplicity of radially and axially extending longitudinallygrooved quills or points 22, each of which is fitted into a radial slotor groove 23 formed in the under face of the ring 2| which lies oppositethe outwardly turned face of the flange I9. Each of the quills 22, asclearly shown in Fig. 4, bends outwardly, as indicated at 24, i. e. in adirection away from the body of the machine, axially of the tubularmember I4, within the radial plane occupied by the quill.

Each quill 22 is pointed at its outer end, as

indicated at 25, and the outwardly projecting portion 24 of each quillis grooved longitudinally along its radially outward face or side, asindicated at 28.

The inner end of each quill 22 is bent at a I right angle to the mainbody portion of the quill, as indicated at 27. The foot or bent portion2'! of each quill fits into an opening 28 formed in the ring 2! and isheld in place therein and with the main portion of each quill in itsseating groove 23 in the ring 2| by the flange I9. The plain face of theflange I9 presses each of the quills firmly into the base of itsreceiving groove 23, whereby the quills are held rigidly in the fabricholder I5. I

As shown in Figs. 4, '7 and 8, a fabric such as the upper end of acircular knit tube, which may constitute the upper end of an elasticsurgical stocking is stretched radially and placed as illustrated inFig. 4, and again placed on the quills of the holder I5, the two pliesof the hem y being illustrated at yl and 2 in said figure. In eachinstance the quills are preferably projected through the stitches of oneand the same course thereof, around the full circumference of the tube3:. After the hem has been completed, the fabric :0 lying outwardlybeyond the course of stitches of the ply 112 through which the quills 22have been projected is raveled out, down to the course occupied by thequills.

In instances where no double ply hem is to be provided, a single ply ofthe fabric of the tube a: is placed on the quills 22 along a coursespaced inwardly from the extreme end of the tube and the fabric from theextreme end down tothe course of stitches occupied by the quills israveled out in the same manner as noted above.

The stitches through which the quills 22 pass are held open by thequills for the entrance of the needle 35 of the machine which enters theopened stitches through the grooves 26 formed in the quills 22. Inentering the stitches successively, the needle 35 carries with it theelastic stitching thread a, which, as hereinbefore noted, may consist ofa strand of bare or covered, cut or extruded rubber.

The needle 35 is secured in one end 38 of a curved arm 31. The arm 31 ispivotally mounted on a pin 38 which is secured in a boss 39 formed onthe upper end of a bracket 49. The bracket 40 may be formed integralwith or be suitably secured to the base plate I. The arm 31 is providedwith a divided hub 41. That portion of the hub 4| to which the arm 31 isattached lies at one side of the bracket 40 while the second portion ofthe hub lies at the opposite side of the bracket 40' and is connected tothe first portion by a yoke portion 42. At the second side of thebracket 40, the hub M is provided with an arm 43. The arm 43- ispivotally connected, at 44, to one end of a link 45, the opposite end ofwhich is secured to or formed integral with an eccentric strap or ring46. The strap 48 encircles an eccentric 41' which is secured to a shaft48. The shaft 48 is rotatably mounted in a pair of bearings 49 and 50.The bearings 49 and 50 are respectively disposed at opposite ends of thebase plate I, with which said bearings may be integrally formed, or towhich said bearings may be secured in any suitable manner. The shaft 48is provided with a crank 5| secured thereto by any suitable means suchas a dowel pin 52, and by which the shaft 48 may be rotated to rotatethe eccentric 41, through which the arm 31 is rocked about its pivot 38causing the needle 35 to be withdrawn from one quill 22 and the stitchesmounted thereon, and by which the needle 35 is caused toenter the nextadjacent quill 22 after the holder l5 has been rotated to the extent ofthe spacing between said quills circumferentially of the holder I5.

There is one tooth in the ratchet wheel III- for each quill 22, in theholder I5. Consequently, movement of the ratchet wheel ID to the extentof one tooth causes one quill 22 to be moved out of the path ofreciprocatory movement of the needle 35 and the next quill to be movedinto the path of movement of the needle 35. Obviously while the needleis entering and leaving each quill the holder I5 remains ina fixedposition.

- The intermittent rotary movements of the ratchet wheel 10 are effectedby a pawl 53, which is pivotably mounted at 54 on one end of a lever 55.The lever 55 is pivotably mounted on a vertically extending stud 56which is rigidly mounted in the base plate I. A second arm 51 of thelever 55 is provided with a cam follower 58 which bears against a camsurface 59 formed on one side of a cam disc 60, which is secured to theshaft 48, adjacent the eccentric 41, A spring 6| having one end attachedto the arm 51 of the lever 55 and its opposite end anchored to thebearing 49, in the present instance, maintains the cam follower 58constantly in operative engagement with the cam sure face 59, whereby,for each revolution of the shaft 48, the needle 35 is caused to enterand to be retracted from the stitch or stitches of the fabric :0,mounted on one of the quills 22; and the holder I is rotated to theextent of one tooth of the ratchet wheel ID, to bring the next quillinto line with the needle for a repeat of the cycle.

As the needle 35 enters each quill 22 and the knitted stitch or stitchesmounted thereon, it carries with it the elastic thread 2, with oneportion .2! of the thread, which lies between the fabric and the eye 35aof the needle, disposed in close contact with the one side of theneedle, while the portion 22 of the thread which extends from the eye35a of the needle 35 back through the stitches mounted on the quill, isdisposed in closed contact with the opposite side of the needle, asclearly shown in Fi 7.

While the needle 35 is in its fully projected position the portion 2! ofthe elastic thread a is picked off and out of contact with the needle bya picker Ill, which, as clearly shown in Figs. 11 to 16, is of a plainwedge shape and includes a point H which passes between the portion 2|of the elastic thread a and the adjacent face of the needle 35, througha cavity A which may be formed by cutting away the needle as indicatedat 352) in Fig. 7 or by bending the needle as indicated at 350 in Fig.8.

The wedged shaped picker 10 is formed on the outer end of a shank T3,said shank being adjustably mounted in a boss 14 formed on one end of apicker lever 15. The picker lever 15 is pivotably mounted at 15 on a hubor sleeve l! which in turn is pivotably mounted on a stud 18 carried byand extended laterally from the bracket at right angles to the axis ofthe pivot 15.

A second arm 19 of the picker lever '15 is provided with a pair of camfollowers 85 and 8! which are disposed at right angles to each other.The cam follower 80 is rotatably mounted about a substantiallyhorizontal axis and arranged to engage a cam surface 82 formed on theperipheral edge of a cam disc 83 which is secured to a shaft 48, whilethe cam follower BI is arranged to engage a cam surface 85 formed on andprojecting laterally from one side of the cam disc 83.

A spring 85, having one end connected to the picker lever T5 and itsopposite end anchored to the bracket 4! maintains the cam followers 80and Bi constantly in contact with the cam surfaces 82 and 85, whereby,for each revolution of the cam shaft 48, the picker H1 is caused toreceive a compound movement by which it passes through the cycle ofoperations illustrated in Figs. 11 to 16, wherein the first ofwhich-illustrates the point of the Dicker l0 entering the space-Abetween the needle 35 and the portion 2| of the elastic thread 2, afterthe needle has been projected through the fabric of the tube a: in themanner heretofore described. Fig. 12 illustrates the picker 15 as havingpassed to the left of the needle and holding the portion 2| of thethread 2 as the needle 35 is retracted, whereby the portion zl of thethread a is formed into a loop 23. Fig. 13 illustrates the picker (0 ashaving been retracted to the right of the path of the needle, while thefabric has correspondingly moved to present the next quill 22 to aposition in line with the path of movement of the needle 35,-the picker10 still retaining the previously formed loop 23 thereon. Fig. 14 showsthe picker 15 as having moved again to the left of the path of movementof the needle with the needle having progressed in its passage throughthe fabric and into the loop .23 which, as the picker 13 moves from theposition shown in Fig. 13 to the position shown in Fig. 14, spreads theloop 23 open for the needle 35 to pass therethrough. Fig. 15 shows theneedle as having passed a sufficient distance through the loop 23 toreceive and hold the loop as the picker 10 again recedes to a positionto the right of the needle, wherein the picker is withdrawn from thepreviously formed loop 23. Fig. 16 illustrates the needle 35 as havingattained its innermost projected position with the previously formedloop 23 slipped upwardly on the needle by reason of its inherentelasticity, to a position above the cavity A with another portion of thethread .2 lying parallel to the needle and in contact with the upperface of the needle and crossing the cavity A, with the picker [3 in itsfully retracted position and about to move again to the left for thepoint H thereof to enter the cavity A between the newly presentedportion zl of the thread a and the needle, to begin the formation ofanother of the interconnected chain of extraneous stitches 24.

The peculiar serpentine path followed by the picker 13 is affected bythe compound movements of the lever 15 as produced by the cams 82 and 85working against the cam followers and BI which are held in constantcontact therewith by the spring 86.

From the above it will be clear that for each revolution of the camshaft 48 one of the quills 22 of the holder I5 is presented in aposition to be entered by the needle 35. The needle 35 goes through acomplete cycle of its operations and the picker Ill follows through acomplete cycle of its operations, as above noted, to produce one of thestitches of the chain 24 whereupon the holder I5 is advancing one stepto bring the next quill in line with the needle 35 for a repeat of thecycle of operations just described. This continues until the needle 35has entered each and every one of the quills 22 around the periphery ofthe holder l5.

Due to the fact that the stitching thread a is inherently elastic it isnecessary to lap the end of the chain of stitches 2A to prevent pullingout of the elastic thread 2 from the fabric in which the chain ofstitches has been formed.

Care must be taken to avoid the chain of stitches being of a length lessthan the circumference of the tube at, or any considerable lengthgreater than the circumference of said tube, in order to avoid ravelingout in the first instance or undue restriction of the elasticity of thechain in the other instance. For these reasons the machine is providedwith an automatic means for effecting the overlapping of the ends of thechains of stitches to a predetermined number of stitches sufficient toavoid raveling but not great enough to produce restriction. For thispurpose the hub 81 of the crank 5I is provided with clutch teeth 88. Theclutch teeth 88 are arranged to intermesh with clutch teeth 09 formed ona pulley 90, through which the shaft 48 may be rotated from any suitablesource of power.

The pulley 90 is loosely mounted on the shaft 48, for movement axiallythereof and relative thereto. The hub 9| of the pulley 90 is providedwith an annular groove 92 into which projects a stud 93 which is carriedon one arm 94 of a control lever 95. The control lever 95 is pivotablymounted on a vertically extending stud 95 which projects upwardly fromand is rigidly mounted in the base plate I. The control lever 95 isprovided with a handle 98 by which said lever may be operated in onedirection to efi'ect engagement between the clutch teeth 89 on thepulley 90 and the clutch teeth 88 on the hub 81 of the crank 5|.

When the shaft 48 has completed a predetermined number of revolutions,sufficient to produce overlapping of the ends of the chain 24, thecontrol lever 95 is automatically operated to disengage the clutch teeth89 from the clutch teeth 88, by a knockoff rod 99. The rod 99 isslidably mounted in bearings I and IOI formed on or carried by the baseplate I. One end of the knockoff rod 99 is arranged to engage the arm 91of the control lever 95 while the opposite end is beveled, as indicatedat I02 in Figs. 1 and 18, for engagement with a cam surface I03. The camsurface I03 is formed on a cam piece I04 which is adjustably mounted ina segmental slot I05 formed in a ratchet wheel I06.

The ratchet wheel I05 is rotatably mounted on a stud I07 carried by abearing IOIa which is supported by the base plate I. The ratchet wheelI06 is adapted to be moved step by step by a pawl I58 which is pivotablymounted on one end of a lever I09, said lever in turn being pivotablymounted on the stud I0'I which rotatably supports the ratchet Wheel I06.Pivotably connected to the lever I09 at I I0 is a link I I I, the secondend of which is mounted on a crank pin II2, which is adjustably mountedin a disk II3 secured to the end of the shaft 48.

There is a greater number of teeth in the ratchet wheel I05 than thereis in the ratchet wheel I0, and the cam piece I04, by reason of itsadjustability in the slot I05 in the ratchet wheel I06, may be set totrip the control lever 95 when the ratchet wheel I06 has advanced thesame number of teeth as there are in the full circumference in theratchet wheel I0; or at any desired point after the ratchet wheel I0 hasmade one complete revolution, whereby the extent of the overlap of theopposite ends of the chain of stitches 24 may be minutely controlled;

The beveled end I02 of the trip rod 99 is held in position to be engagedby the trip cam I03 by a collar H4 which is secured to the trip rod 99and which is normally held in engagement with one end of the bearing IOIby a spring H5. The spring H5 encircles the rod 99 between one end ofthebearing I00 and a second collar IIO, which is secured to the trip rod99.

In order to prevent the hem y from curling inwardly around the holderI5,- in a position to interfere with the operation of the needle 35 andthe picker I0, means are provided for holding the hem y radially outwardin a position to provide clearance for the needle and the picker. Insome instances, as shown in Figs. 1; 2 and 4 this means may consistmerely of a pair of posts III, II! secured to and projecting outwardlyfrom the bracket 5 at each side of the space in which the needle andpicker operate and which merely support theedge of the hem in a positionoutwardly from the holder as the holder revolves.

As shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4 the axis aboutwhich'the holder I5revolves is preferably disposed at an angle relative to the horizontal,for convenience of the operator.

The elastic stitching thread 2 after passing through the eye 35a of theneedle 35 passes to any suitable guide formed in or carried by the freeend 35 of the arm 31, as hereinafter more specifically described, fromwhich the thread passes directly through a slot I3I formed in a post I32which is carried by and projects vertically from the bracket 40. Thethread passes over a collar I33 which is slidably mounted on the postI32 and is constantly urged upwardly by a spring I34 which encircles thepost I32 and is confined between the lower end of the collar I33 and theupper surface of the bracket 40, from which the post I32 projects. I

After passing over the collar I33 the thread .2 passes through an eyeI35 to an adjustable tensioning disc I30 of conventional sewing machinetype. From the tensioning device I35 the thread 2, passes through asecond eye I 31 to the cone I38 from which the thread 2 isintermittently drawn. I

The device I35 provides the necessary tension on the thread 2 and may beregulated to apply just the correct amount of tension to said threadduring the stitching operation as will cause the finished chain ofstitches to have an amount of elasticity corresponding to the inherentelasticity of the fabric, in the direction of the line of said chain ofstitches. The spring I34, always tending to raise the collar I33, tendsto take up the surplus thread carried through the fabric and drawn bythe picker to form the loop 23 after the needle and picker retract, butthe spring does not exert any undue tension on the thread which woulddisrupt the critical tension as applied by the tensioning device I36.

In the structure shown in Figs. 20 to 23 inelusive, the long needle armshown in Figs. 1 and 2 etc., and which is designated thereon by thenumeral 37, is replaced by a short needle arm I50. The short needle armI50 is provided with a pivot-pin, stud or trunnion I5I which isrotatably mounted in a boss or bearing I52. The bearing I52 is securedto or formed integral with a bracket I53. The bracket I53 is secured tothe base plate I.

The short needle arm I50 is provided on its outer end with a needleholding head I54. The needle head I54 is provided with an opening I55adapted to receive the butt I56 of the needle I5'I. The butt end I55 ofthe needle I51 in the present instance is of rectangular cross sectionand the needle opening I 55 is correspondingly shaped to prevent turningof the needle from its definitely fixed position in the head I54. Theneedle is held in the opening I55 in the head I54 by a set screw I58.

The major portion of the needle I5! is curved on an are substantiallyconcentric to the axis of the pivot I5I of the needle carrying arm I50,as clearly shown in Figs. 20 and 23. The outer curved face of the needleI5I is provided with a groove I59 which extends longitudinally of theneedle from the eye I60 thereof to a point adjacent the butt I56 of theneedle, for reception of the stitching thread a.

The pivot element II of the needle arm I5! is provided with an operatinglever ISI, for the needle arm I55. The needle arm I50is rocked about theaxis of the pivot element I5I by a connecting link I62, one end of whichis pivotally connected at I63 to the lever IBI While the oppcsite end isconnected to or provided with an eccentric strap Hit. The eccentricstrap I64 corresponds to the eccentric strap 46 in that form of thedevice which is shown in Figs. 1 and 2, etc. The eccentric strap I54encircles an eccentric I65 which corresponds to the needle operatingeccentric 41 of the device shown in Figs. 1 and 2, etc.

The eccentric I55, like the eccentric II, is secured to the main shaft43 ofthe machine, so that for each rotation of said shaft the needle I51will be moved from its-normal inoperative position shown in Fig. 20 toits thread projecting position shown in Fig. 23 and returned to itsinoperative position shown in Fig. 20. During each oscillation of theneedle I5'I the operation of the picker I5 is the same as heretoforedescribed during each reciprocation of the needle 35.

The needle I5'I, being bent on a relatively short radius, provides arelatively large gap AI between the one side of the needle and theportion'zl of the stitching thread which projects from the eye I69 ofthe needle to the stitch or other opening in the fabric through whichthe needle I57 has been projected. The larger opening AI providesgreater space for the picker III to enter and permits the machine to beoperated at relatively r high speeds.

The operation'of the machine at high speeds is facilitated further bythe short length of the needle arm I56 andthe short radius on which theneedle I51 swings. the needle arm and the curvature of the'needle on acorrespondingly short radius eliminates lateral vibration which mayoccur in the long arm 31 previously described and which, if operated athigh speed, may tend to effect mis-alignmentof the needle with thegrooves of the quills ofthe fabric holder, whereas, when using the shortneedle arm I53, the point of the needle, when withdrawn from the fabric,lies relatively close to the quills and insures alignment of the needlewith each quill successively, when the machine is'operated at highspeed.

The groove I59 formed in the outer curved face of the needle I51 holdsthat portion of the stitching thread a which extends from the eye It!)of the needle to the thread supply, from slipping laterally off theneedle to a position where it would be caught by the picker it at thetime said picker operates through the space AI to pick up the portion zIof said stitching thread.

In order to insure the stitching thread 2 remaining in the groove of theneedlegor being replaced in the groove of the needle should the threadfor any reason, be displaced from the groove, said thread is controlledby a guide I65 The fore-shortening of tion clear of the needle and thepicker by means of a shoe I20 which is provided with a fiat portion I2Iarranged to extend circumferentially of the holder I5 throughout thearea traversed by the picker III, said shoe having ears I22, I 22 at theopposite ends of the plate portion IZI'which engage and curl the hem youtwardly as the holder I5 revolves. The shoe I20 is provided with anarm I23 which is secured to the bracket 5 to prevent movement of saidshoe.

The fabric is held in' fiat contact with the portion I2! of the shoe I20by a flat yoke shaped plate I24 having outwardly flaring ends I25arranged to bear against one side of the hem, to prevent collapse of thefabric around the outer ends of the quills 22 into the path of theneedle 35. The pressure plate I24 is carried on one end of an arm I26which is pivotably connected at I21 to the bracket 45, said pressureplate being held in firm contact with the fabric, to more or less gripthe fabric between the shoe HI and the plate I24, by a spring I28 shownin Fig. 25.

When it becomes necessary to change fabric holders I5, after thecompletion of the stitching of the fabric carried by the holder I5 whichis in the machine, the presser plate I24 is swung upwardly and carriesthe guide I56 with it, the stitching threads 2 at such time passing fromthe eye I65 of the needle to and around the guide I55, thence to thethread supply. I

It is also necessary under'the circumstances to swing the needlecarrying arm I out of its normal operating position, to permitinterchanging of the fabric holders I5, and for-this purpose the needlearm I is pivoted at I to and between a pair of ears III, III whichare'formed on the head IBI of the pivot stud IEI. The lever I50 isprovided with a pair ofshoulders I72, I'IZ which normally bearagainstfiat surfaces I13, 7 H3 formed on the outer ends of the ears I'II, IIIrespectively. A lug I'M formed on the lever I50 and which extendsbetween the ears IT I, I II and therewith forms-the hinge forsaid lever,is provided with a pair of indentations I15, I75. The indentations I15,I15 are adapted to receive a spring pressed ball or plunger H5 which ismounted in a recess III formed in the head I5I. In-the recess I" is alsomounted aspring IIS which resiliently forcesthe retaining element I16into one or the other of the indentations I'I5 formed in the lug IMofthe needle lever. I50, whereby the needle arm- I50 will be retained ineither its full-line operating position, shown in Fig. 21, or in itsbroken-line inoperative position, shown in said figure.

The remainder of the elements making up the machine employing the shortneedle arm construction shown in Figs. 20Yto 23 inclusive aresubstantially the same as the corresponding parts of the machine shownin Figs. 1, 2 etc. The adaptation of theshort needle arm construction tothe machine requires nothing more than a shifting of the needleoperating eccentric to a position on the shaft 48 adjacent the bearing49, it being understood that the bearing I52 for the pivot I5I of theshort needle arm I55 and the operating lever I5! for said short needlelever occupy positions on the bed plate adjacentthat end thereofatwhich-the bearing is located.

Prior to the presentinventionithas been -me-' chanically impossible andcommercially impractical to stitch a fabric with a highly elasticthread. I

It has been impossible to stitch withrubber in a sewing or loopingmachine for the reason that the rubber thread, when carried through thefabric by the eye of the needle, is frictionally retarded by the fabricat the point of penetration as the needle passes through the fabric.This causes the thread to stretch between the eye of the needle and thepoint of penetration of the fabric and the increased tension produced inthe thread by this stretching causes the thread to hug closely to theopposite sides of the needle during both the forward and backwardstrokes of longitudinal reciprocation of the needle, therefore it hasbeen impossible for the point of a shuttle or a loop former to enterbetween the needle and the elastic thread to pick the thread off theneedle for effecting locking of the thread on the one face of the fabricto produce the required series of extraneous stitches by which thesuture or edge is formed. In the present case the necessary space A orAI is provided between the elastic thread a and one side of the needleas clearly shown in Figs. '7, -8 and 23 respectively.

It has been commercially impractical to stitch with rubber by handsewing because of the time and labor required. Furthermore, hand sewnseams cannot be uniformly produced. In the case of rubber bearingfabrics, such as surgical stockings, bandages, etc. the pull of therubber in the knitted fabric makes it extremely difficult to maintainthe fabric manually in a spread condition, as required in hand sewing,and the production of a single operator for a working day is thereforeextremely low.

In order to prevent overtravel of the holder I when moved intermittentlyby the pawl 53,

through the ratchet wheel I U, a brake I 80 is provided and bearsresiliently against the rear face I8I of the ratchet wheel ID, as shownin Figs. 4 and 6. The brake pad I80 is secured to one end of a resilientarm I82, the opposite end of which is secured, by a screw I83, to thebracket 5.

Normally the holder I 5 can be readily removed from the rotating sleeveI, for placing another holder I5 therein, it being understood that thetubes x may be placed on the quills of the holders I5 at places remoteto the sewing or looping machine by one or more assistant operators toeliminate the necessity of the machine standing idle while a new tube a:is being placed on the quills.

The pin or key I6 carried by the sleeve I and entering any one of anumber of indexing holes I8 in the holders I5 indexes the quills of theholder with the needle and causes the holder to rotate with the sleeveI.

In order to prevent accidental axial movement of the holder I5 relativeto the sleeve I during the stitching operation, locking means such asshown in Figs. 9, and 10 or 19 may be used.

If the structure shown in Fig. 19 is used the rigid indexing pin I6 maybe replaced by a movable indexing pin ISa which instead of extendingaxially of the sleeve I4 may extend radially and be slidably mounted ina bearing I'Ia formed in the flange 8 and sleeve I to enter any one of anumber of index openings I8a drilled radially instead of axially in thetubular portion I4 of the holder I5. In this case the pin I6a servesboth as an indexing means and a means for locking the holder [5 to therotary sleeve I.

If the structure shown in Figs. 9 and 10 is used. the index pin I6 andindex openings I8 are employed to key the holder to the rotary sleevefor concurrent rotation therewith and relative axial movement isprevented by a pair of latches I 85, I pivotally mounted on the rearface of the bracket 5, as at I86, each latch having its tip I8'Iarranged to enter a circumferential groov I88 formed in the rear endof'the tubular member I I of the holder I5.

Each latch I is provided with an operating lever I89, said levers beingconnected together by a link I90, so that rocking of one latch into orout of its looking or releasing positions shown in Fig, 9 will causesimilar movement of the other of said latches.

The latches I 85, I 85 are automatically moved intoand out of lockingposition by a link I 9| connecting the link I90 with th starting andstopping handle 98 of the machine so that when the clutch element 89 isreleased from the clutch element 88 the holder I5 is automaticallyreleased from the sleeve 1 and can be readily removed therefrom.

A new holder I5 with a new tube a: thereon can then be placed in andindexed with the sleeve 1 and when the handle 98 is operated to startthe machine the latches I 85, I 85 will be automatically thrown intoposition to lock the holder I5 to the sleeve I.

The axis of the holder I5 is placed on an angle with respect to thehorizontal for several reasons in addition to this position being moreconvenient for the operator, for example by so doing the quill portions24 may be disposed substantially parallel to the axis of the holder I5to avoid excessive stretching of the fabric of the tube at when beingplaced on and removed from the quills. Furthermore, the inclination ofthe axis of the holder throws the quill which is aligned with the needleinto a position where the arc of sweep of the needle and thelongitudinal axis of the groove in the projecting portion 24 of thequill are substantially coincident, whereby the needle will move intoand out of the opened stitches of the fabric disposed on the quillwithout rubbing or straining the stitches.

In order to effect accurate alignment between the needle and the quillsthe needle 35 is adjustably mounted in a needle holder I as shown inFigs; 4 and 5. The needle holder I95 is ad justably mounted in the freeend 36 of the sweep arm 31.

The holder I95 comprises a longitudinally split head I95 having a smallbore I91 for reception of the shank of the needle 35 and an axiallyaligned larger bore I38 threaded for the reception of a backing screwI99 against which the butt of the needle bears; A clamping screw 290passing through one ear and threaded into another ear 2M which projectfrom the head I96 is employed to effect clamping of the needle shank inthe head of the needle holder.

The needle holder I95 is provided with a stud 292 which is adjustablymounted in a collar 203 and held thereon by a set screw 204. The collar253 is provided with a stud 295 which is mounted in an opening 206formed in the free end 35 of the sweep arm 31, a set screw 25'! beingprovided to lock the stud 265 in its adjusted position.

With this means accurate alignment of the path of movement of the needlewith the groove of each quill coming into stitching position may beattained.

As shown in Fig. 4, the tubular fabric a: extends loosely through theopen center of the tubular portion I4 of the fabric holder I5 with oneend of the fabric tube hanging freely between the racket 5 and the outeredge of the base plate I. A portion adjacent the opposite end of thefabric tube a: is stretched radially and circumferentially around theflange I9 and ring 2| of the holder l5 which are of larger diameter thanthe neck portion of the holder I5 lying directly behind the flange E9.The tube a: then bends backwardly around the flange I9 and normallycontracts into contact with the reduced neck portion of the holder l5adjacent the flange l9. The fabric guide posts H1, H1 project outwardlyfrom the bracket 5 over the reduced neck of-the holder and the tube :2is lifted from the upper part of the reduced neck and placed over theposts III, I l l to provide working space for the fabric penetrating endof the needle 35 and the end of the picker 1!] which cooperatestherewith to form the chain stitches of the elastic stitching thread.

In order to hold the stitching thread a in alignment with the needle 35,as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, the needle holder is drilled, as indicated at208, in a manner to produce a guide eye for the thread directly belowand in the vertical plane of the needle.

I claim: 7

1. A machine for stitching a fabric with a highly elastic threadcomposed at least in part of a strand of rubber, said machine comprisingmeans for holding said fabric in a stretched condition, a substantiallyaxially reciprocable needle adapted to penetrate said fabric and havingan eye adjacent its fabric penetrating end through which said elasticthread passes, said needle being formed with a concavity along one ofits sides rearwardly of said eye to provide a space between said side ofsaid needle and a portion of the elastic thread normally extending in astraight line and under tension from said eye to the point ofpenetration of the fabric, means operated in one direction incoordination with said needle to enter said space and flex said elasticthread from said straight line to form said thread into a stitch loop onone face of the fabric, means for intermittently advancing said fabricholding means transversely to the path of reciprocation of said needleduring a predetermined portion of each cycle of reciprocation of saidneedle and while said elastic thread is held by said flexing means, andmeans for operating said flexing means in a reverse direction whileholding said loop to carry said loop across the path of said needle intoa position to be entered by the needle on a subsequent fabricpenetrating stroke of reciprocation thereof.

2. A machine for stitching a fabric with a highly elastic threadcomposed at least in part of a strand of rubber, said machine comprisingmeans for holding said fabric in a stretched condition, a substantiallyaxially reciprocable needle adapted to penetrate said fabric and havingan eye adjacent its fabric penetrating end through which said elasticthread passes, said needle being formed with a concavity along one ofits'sides rearwardly of said eye to provide a space between said side ofsaid needle and a portion of the elastic thread normally extending in astraight line and under tension from said eye to the point ofpenetration of the fabric, means operated in one direction incoordination with said needle to enter said space and flex said elasticthread from said straight line to form said thread into a stitch loop onone face of the fabric, means for intermittently advancing said fabricholding means transversely to the path of reciprocation of said needleduring a predetermined portion of each cycle of reciprocation of saidneedle and whilesaid elastic thread is held by said flexing means, meansfor operating said flexing means in a reverse direction to carry theloop of the elastic thread held thereby across the path of said needlefor entrance by the needle on the next fabric penetrating stroke ofreciprocation thereof, and means for retracting said flexing meanssubsequent to the entrance of the needle into the held loop to transfersaid loop from said flexing means to the projected end of the needlearound the straight line portion of the elastic thread extending fromthe eye of the needle to the point of penetration of the fabric.

3. A machine for stitching an elastic tubular fabric with a highlyelastic thread comprising a rotary element having a circumference inexcess of the normal circumference of said fabric but of a size topermit the tube to completely encircle said element on the exteriorthereof, a multiplicity of longitudinally grooved quills spaced apart atpredetermined angles circumferentially of said element for passagethrough said fabric to hold said fabric in a radially andcircumferentially stretched condition, a needle operable in the groovesof said quills and through the fabric impaled thereon from one side ofthe fabric. means arranged at the opposite side of the fabric andoperated in coordination with said needle to form said thread into achain of stitches passing through the fabric, means for intermittentlyrotating said element for successively advancing said quills relative tosaid needle and said coordinated means, and means adjacent the exteriorof said rotary element to intercept the fabric adjacent said needle andsaid cooperating stitch forming means to move the fabric away from saidrotary element and provide working clearance adjacent said quills forsaid needle and said cooperating stitch forming means.

4. A machine for stitching an elastic tubular fabric with a highlyelastic thread comprising a rigid framework, a rotary element journaledin said framework and having a circumference in excess of the normalcircumference of said fabric but of a size to permit the tube tocompletely encircle said element on the exterior thereof, a multiplicityof longitudinally grooved quills spaced apart at predetermined anglescircumferentially of said element for passage through said fabric tohold said fabric in a radially and circumferentially stretchedcondition, a needle operable in the grooves of said quills and throughthe fabric impaled thereon from one side of the fabric, means arrangedat the opposite side of the fabric and operated in coordination withsaid needle to form said thread into a chain of stitches passing throughthe fabric, means for intermittently rotating said element forsuccessively advancing said quills relative to said needle and saidcoordinated means, and a post carried by and extending outwardly fromsaid framework over said rotary element at each of the opposite sides ofthe path of movement of said needle and adapted to intercept and movethe fabric away from said rotary element adjacent said needle and saidcooperating stitch forming means and to support a portion of said fabricbetween said posts in spaced relation to said rotary element during theintermittent rotations thereof to provide working clearance adjacentsaid quills for said needle and said coordinated means.

5. A machine for stitching an elastic tubular fabric with a highlyelastic thread comprising a rotary element having a circumference inexcess of the normal circumference of said fabric tube but of a size topermit the tube to complete encircle said element on the exteriorthereof, a multiplicity of longitudinally grooved quills spaced apart atpredetermined angles circumferentially of said element for passagethrough said fabric to hold said fabric in a radially andcircumferentially stretched condition, a needle operable in the groovesof said quills, means operated in coordiation with said needle to formsaid thread into a chain of stitches passing through the fabric, meansfor intermittently rotating said element for successively advancing saidquills relative to said needle and said coordinated means, and a platedisposed in a plane substantially at right angles to the axis of saidholder adjacent the path of movement of said quills and against whichsaid fabric bears adjacent said needle and said coordinated means toprovide working clearance for said needle and said cooperating stitchforming means adjacent said quills.

6. A machine for stitching an elastic tubular fabric with a highlyelastic thread comprising a rotary element having a circumference inexcess of the normal circumference of said fabric tube, a multiplicityof longitudinally grooved quills spaced apart at predetermined anglescircumferentially of said element for passage through said fabric tohold said fabric in a radially and circumferentially stretchedcondition, a needle operable in the grooves of said quills, meansoperated in coordination with said needle to form said thread into achain, of stitches passing through the fabric, means for intermittentlyrotating said element for successively advancing said fabric holdingquills relative to said needle and said coordinated means, and guidingmeans comprising a plate having a main portion disposed in a planesubstantially at right angles to the axis of said holder and againstwhich said fabric bears adjacent said needle and said coordinated means,the ends of said plate curving away from said plane of said main portionof said plate to guide said fabric onto the main right angle portionthereof for guiding a portion of the fabric past the point ofcooperation between the needle and said coordinated stitch forming meansto provide working clearance for said needle and said cooperating stitchforming means.

7. A machine for stitching an elastic tubular fabric with a highlyelastic thread comprising a rotary element having a circumference inexcess of the normal circumference of said fabric tube, a multiplicityof longitudinally grooved quills spaced apart at predetermined anglescircumferentially of said element for passage through said fabric tohold said fabric in a radially and circumferentially stretchedcondition, a needle operable in the grooves of said quills, meansoperated in coordination with said needle to form said thread into achain of stitches passing through the fabric, means for intermittentlyrotating said element for successively advancing said quills relative tosaid needle and said ccordinated means, means for guiding a portion ofthe fabric past the point of cooperation between I a tubular fabric,comprising a normally horizontally disposed bed plate, a tubular holderthrough which said fabric may extend, a diametrically enlarged end onsaid holder around which said fabric is diametrically andcircumferentially stretched, longitudinally grooved quills projectingoutwardly from said enlarged end of said holder through said fabric, aneedle operable in the grooves of said quills, means cooperating withsaid needle for forming a chain of stitches circumferentially of saidfabric, means projecting outwardly from one edge of said bed plate forrotatably supporting said holder with the axis of the holder disposed atan incline with respect to the plane of said base plate, and means forintermittently rotating said holder to bring said quills successivelyinto alignment with said needle.

9. A machine for circumferentially stitching a tubular fabric,comprising a normally horizontally disposed bed plate, a tubular holderthrough which said fabric may extend, a diametrically enlarged end onsaid holder around which said fabric is diametrically andcircumferentially stretched, longitudinally grooved quills projectingoutwardly from said enlarged end of said holder through said fabric, aneedle operable in the grooves of said quills, means cooperating withsaid needle for forming a chain of stitches circumferentially of saidfabric, means projecting outwardly from one edge of said bed plate forrotatably supporting said holder with the axis of the holder disposed atan incline with respect to the plane of said base plate, a needlesupporting arm pivotally mounted on said base plate inwardly from saidedge thereof and causing the needle to swing through an aresubstantially coinciding with the groove in one of said quills, andmeans for intermittently rotating said holder to bring said quillssuccessively into alignment with said needle.

10. In a machine for circumferentially stitching a tubular fabric, abearing, a rotary element in said bearing, means for preventing relativeaxial movement between said rotary element and said bearing, a readilyremovable fabric holder carried by said rotary element, means forpreventing relative rotary movement between said holder and said rotaryelement, readily releasable means for preventing relative axial movementbetween said rotary element and said holder, means for intermittentlyrotating said rotary element and said holder, means for driving saidintermittent rotating means, means for controlling said driving means,and means operable by said controlling means for releasing said holderfrom said rotary element to permit removal thereof.

11. In a machine for circumferentially stitching a tubular fabric, atubular holder through the interior of which said fabric extends, anannular diametrical enlargement on one end of said holder around whichsaid fabric is radially and circumferentially stretched, said holderhaving an outer diametrically reduced neck adjacent said annularenlargement adapted to be engaged by a relatively contracted portion ofthe tubular fabric, longitudinally grooved quills projecting from saidannular enlargement through the fabric stretched thereby, a needleoperable in the grooves of said quills, means for intermittentlyrotating said holder to bring said quills successively into aligmnentwith said needle, and stationary posts at opposite sides respectively ofsaid needle and projecting over said neck and lifting said fabric fromsaid neck to provide working clearance for said needle adjacent saidquills.

12. A machine for stitching a fabric with a highly elastic threadcomposed at least in part of a strand of rubber, comprising alongitudinally curved needle providing an inner longitudinally concavedside and an outer longitudinally convexed side thereon and having apointed fabric penetrating end and an eye adjacent said pointed endthrough which said elastic thread passes, a relatively short rocker armsupporting said needle adjacent the opposite end thereof, the curvatureof said needle being substantially concentric to the pivotal axis ofsaid rocker arm to provide a space between said concaved side of saidneedle and a portion of the elastic thread normally extending in astraight line under tension from said eye to the point of penetration ofthe fabric by said needle and said elastic thread and having theconvexed side provided with a thread receiving groove extendingsubstantially from said eye along said needle to a point beyond thepoint of greatest penetration of the fabric, means located outside thepath of movement of said arm in alignment with said groove for guidingsaid thread into said needle groove beyond said fabric, means forrocking said arm to effect penetration of the fabric by said needle, andmeans arranged and operated in coordination with said needle to entersaid space and form said thread into a stitch loop on one face of thefabric.

13. A machine for stitching a fabric with a highly elastic threadcomposed at least in part of a strand of rubber, comprising alongitudinally curved needle having a pointed fabric penetrating end andan eye adjacent said pointed end through which said elastic threadpasses, a relatively short rocker arm supporting said needle adjacentthe opposite end thereof, the curvature of said needle beingsubstantially concentric to the pivotal axis of said rocker arm toprovide a space between said needle and a portion of the elastic threadnormally extending in a straight line under tension from said eye to thepoint of penetration of the fabric by said needle and said elasticthread, means for rocking said arm to effect penetration of the fabricby said needle, means arranged and operated in coordination with saidneedle to enter said space and form said thread into a stitch loop onone face of the fabric, said rocker arm including a pivotal section anda needle carrying section pivotally connected together on an axisextending transversely to the pivotal axis of said rocker arm as awhole.

14. A machine for stitching a fabric with a highly elastic threadcomposed at least in part of a strand of rubber, comprising alongitudinally curved needle having a pointed fabric penetrating end andan eye adjacent said pointed end through which said elastic threadpasses, a relatively short rocker arm supporting said needle adjacentthe opposite end thereof, the curvature of said needle beingsubstantially concentric to the pivotal axis of said rocker arm toprovide a space between said needle and a portion of the elastic threadnormally extending in a straight line under tension from said eye to thepoint of penetration of the fabric by said needle and said i elasticthread, means for rocking said arm to efiect penetration of the fabricby said needle, means arranged and operated in coordination with saidneedle to enter said space and form said thread into a stitch loop onone face of the fabric, said rocker arm including a pivotal section anda needle carrying section pivotally connected together on an axisextending transversely to the pivotal axis of said rocker arm as awhole, and means for retaining said needle carrying section in either oftwo positions relative to said pivotal section.

15. A machine for stitching a fabric with a highly elastic threadcomposed at least in part of a strand of rubber, comprising alongitudinally curved needle providing an inner longitudinally concavedside and an outer longitudinally convexed side thereon and having apointed fabric penetrating end and an eye adjacent said pointed endthrough which said elastic thread passes, a relatively short rocker armsupporting said needle, the curvature of said needle being substantiallyconcentric to the pivotal axis of said rocker arm to provide a spacebetween said concaved side of said needle and a portion of the elasticthread normally extending in a straight line under tension from said eyeto the point of penetration of the fabric by said needle and saidelastic thread, said needle having the convexed side provided with athread receiving groove extending substantially from said eye along saidneedle to a point beyond the point of greatest penetration of thefabric, means for guiding said thread into said needle groove beyondsaid fabric, and means for supporting said guide in either an operativeposition or in an inoperative position in a plane coincident with theplane of said needle groove.

16. In a sewing or looping machine, the combination of a needle, anoscillating arm carrying the needle in the ,free end thereof, a needleholder slidably and rotatably adjustably mounted in said free end ofsaid arm, and means for adjustably securing one end of said needle insaid needle holder including an abutment screw axially aligned with theneedle.

17. In a sewing or looping machine, the combination of a needle, anoscillating arm carrying the needle in the free end thereof, a needleholder slidably and rotatably adjustably mounted in said free end ofsaid arm, means for adjustably securing one end of said needle in saidneedle holder including an abutment screw axially aligned with theneedle. and thread guiding means in said needle holder adjacent thesecured end of the needle.

ARTHUR R. BELL.

